Cortina d’Ampezzo, Italy

Cortina d'Ampezzo, Da Beppe Sello photo, ItalyDining

If you get a chance, don’t miss a lunch high above Cortina at Capanna Tondi on Monte Faloria (0436-5775). They serve excellent full-service meals in a chalet setting at 7,677 feet with wide views of the town and surrounding mountains. Call for reservations, especially on weekends. The same family has been running this refuge for more than half a century. The current proprietess, Signora Rosie, is a striking blond bundle of energy who ensures every detail is handled perfectly. The dining room is built with wrought iron and wood brought from Austria, then carried up the mountain on mule back and assembled before anyone dreamed of a cable car lift. A full meal here with wine, starter, main course and dessert will run about €30–€35. The view is priceless.

Just below the Tondi is another less intimate, more modern mountain restaurant with self service as well as regular service. It is frequented by tour groups since it is right at the top of the Faloria lift from Cortina.

Another excellent mountain lunch accessible by virtually every skier is the Rifugio Scotoni on the Lagazuoi-Armentarola trail. Head there for excellent grilled meats, raclette and local specialties.

The following restaurants, recommended by several local residents, have excellent food. Expect to pay around €13–€15 in a pizzeria and up to €60 in the top restaurant, including house wine.

Tivoli, Lacedel 34; (0436-866400). Overlooking Cortina, and rated as one of the best in town with prizewinning, home-made tortelli di patate. Try the deer and other mountain specialties. This is the only Michelin-star restaurant in town. Call before coming to the resort for reservations. Closed Monday.

El Toulá, Ronco 123; (0436-3339). A once-upon-a-time hayloft converted to cozy restaurant boasts three Michelin forks (not quite a star). It is considered one of the most chi-chi restaurants in town. Hence, it is expensive, very expensive—this restaurant will push the €60 price if the meal has starter, first and second course and dessert with wine. Closed Monday.

The Petite Fleur (0436-3261) in the basement of Hotel Ancora has wonderful gourmet local Cortina fare (Cucina Ampezzana) in a small elegant room.

Lago Ghedina (0436-860876) has a great setting on the lake and good food but you need a car to get there.

Da Beppe Sello (0436-3236; photo above) One of the best. Must have a car or take a taxi and it is expensive. Another two-fork Michelin spot.

Baita Fraina; Fraina, 1; (0436-3634). Hard to get to but very worth it. Michelin gives this place two forks. Closed Monday.

Lago Scin; At Lago Scin; (0436-2391) is another Michelin recommended restaurant with two forks. Closed Wednesday.

Siesta has simple homemade food (cucina casalinga) with medium prices.

Ra Stua photo, Hotel Regina Cortina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, ItalyMezcal (0436-866283) Here you find Mexican food in the center of town at affordable prices where the food is served with Latin spirit. They dance on the tables until the wee hours.

Ristorante Amadeus, Verocai 73; (0436-867450) serves affordable meals with a fixed-price menu of €25 including house wine on Thursday and Friday evenings. Closed Tuesday.

Ra Stua, Via Grohmann 2; (0436-868341; photo left). Great ambiance, good food. Closed Wednesday.

El Zoco, Cadamai, 18; (0436-860041) gets good reviews. Closed Monday.

For pizza try Al Ponte, Croda Caffé, Corso Italia, 163 (0436-866589, closed Tuesday); Cinque Torre, Via Stazione, 3 (0436-866301 closed Thursday) or Da Pino that is a very elegant pizzeria with prices to match.


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