Dining

St. Anton and St. Christoph | Lech and Zürs

Here, appropriately so, most of the best restaurants are up on the mountain. Heading the list is the Galzig Verwall-Stube (2352501, fax 2352502) where sitting at what seems like the top of the world you can dine on lobster ravioli, baked monk fish, saltimbocca, nutty spinach leaves and finish with fresh fruit sorbets. The daily menu ranges from €30–€110. Watch your choice and you can have some of the world’s best cooking in a spectacular setting for very affordable prices.

The other great dining experiences on the mountain are in St. Christoph. The Arlberg Hospiz Ski-Club Stube (2611, fax 3545; photo left) is a bit more luxurious than its sister restaurant the Hospiz-Alm (3625, fax 362510). Both establishments are owned by the same family. At the Ski-Club Stube the lunch menu is not as sumptuous as the dinner menu. Try the veal filet with vegetable canneloni and have the orange pancakes with homemade toppings for desert. At the Hospiz-Alm the lederhosen-clad waitstaff sets the tone. Feast on pickled salmon terrine, then sip the lobster cream soup, move on to the lamb and finish with chocolate mousse. The fixed menus normally are €32–€60.

Down in the village of St. Anton the best restaurant is in the only five-star hotel in the town. The St. Antonerhof’s rustic Rafflstube (2910, fax 3551) is top of the line, but not at the top of the mountain.

The king of fondue lives at the Hotel Montjola (2302), ten minutes above town. Step through a painted door and enjoy any of eight different fondues in cozy, low-ceiling rooms. They also serve normal fare in monster portions. Their “Giant Wiener Schnitzle” lives up to its name.

The Alte Post (25530) has fine local cooking served in a 17th century setting.

Museum (2475), upstairs above the Ski and Folk Museum, has three rooms where gourmet Austrian meals are served. One room is the original room of a 90-year-old mansion and it has a huge marble fireplace with oak paneling from the Czech Republic. Meals will cost ¤25–¤35.

For a romantic evening head out to the Verwall (3249) for Tyrolean specialties by candlelight. Make reservations and call a taxi or take a horse-drawn sled and bring along some schnapps. The food is good but the experience is better. This is also a favorite stop for cross-country skiers during the day.

Another very traditional place to have Austrian fare is the Sailer (2673) where you can fill up with the locals without breaking the bank. Schindler (2207) has a motto, “Simple, yet exquisite.” Locals and Michelin report that the food here is the real traditional stuff such as salbeileber and apfelschmarrn. The Schwarzer Adler (2244) sets a table that brims with Austrian specialties. Prices start at €12.

Reasonably priced meals are always on the menu at the Aquila Cafe (2217), Testarossa (29685) and Grieswirt (2965). The fondue, pigs knuckles and chicken wings at the Robis Rodel-stall (0699-10858855) are good and affordable. It is at the bottom of the lighted toboggan run and has tables around a big open fireplace. At the top of the toboggan run go to the Rodelalm and have local specialties before beginning your two-km., eight-minute toboggan ride down the floodlit track.

Hazienda (2968) serves excellent steaks and seafood.

Don’t leave St. Anton without a pizza from the Pomodoro (3333) if only to say you had one. It’s cheap and friendly, and you may see your ski instructor there. But we would spend our pizza and pasta money at San Antonio (3474).

The Funky Chicken has the cheapest eats in town—hard to miss as you come down off the slopes. It’s open to 2 a.m. and has take out. There are couches in front of the fireplace. It is a great place to people-watch over a margarita or a beer. Half a chicken sets you back less than €4.50.

For breakfast, head to Häferl for the best pastries and cakes in town. Aquila also has good pastries and coffee.

Lech and Zürs dining
In Lech, many restaurants have instituted a children’s menu with a fixed price of €10 or so. For good food try the restaurants in Hotel Montana (2460), which has the best wine cellar in town. The Arlberg (21340) is highly recommended with an Austrian influenced gourmet menu. Hotel Salome (23060) gets good recommendations. Hotel Krone (2551) is a shrine of local cooking with exceptional use of local ingredients.

For nouvelle Austrian cuisine, try the Goldener Burg (22050), which is also known for its romantic fondue, or Brunnenhof (2349). The Hotel Post (22060) and the Almhof Schneider (3155) serve excellent traditional recipes. Hûs Nr. 8 (3322), an intimate restaurant offering Austrian fare at a median price, is in a cute old house with low doorways.

Restaurant Italiener (3734) has the best, inexpensive Italian in town with a fabulous antipasta buffet. Plus, its bar downstairs is quite a scene after 10 p.m. For those with a sweet tooth, head to the Olympia Café (2311) at the base of the tram to Oberlech for some real Austrian apple strudel or “Kaiserschmarrn”—don’t ask, just order it.

Fux (2992) not only has the town’s hot bar, it has an excellent restaurant with heavy Asian influences. Try chicken satay, miso soup, sushi, tempura and dim sum.

Just outside Lech, in Zug (normally reached by a sleigh ride from Lech), the Gasthof Hotel Rote Wand (3435) offers excellent food in the best of Austrian tradition. Its specialty is an excellent fondue bourguignon with dozens of different dipping sauces, starting with soup and finishing with strudel. Restaurant Klösterle (3190), in a small, former monastery, is expensive but worth it with fondue specialties in a historic setting. Gasthaus Alphorn (2750) also has excellent meals.

For cheaper eats, try Pizza Charly (2339) for good Italian food and head up to Gasthof Omesberg (2212) for great traditional Austrian fare.

In Zürs, a meal at Albona Nova (2341, fax 234112) has been recognized by the top critics in Europe and has a serious following. Make reservations. Try the wild duck with polenta, the goose liver ravioli, the lamb with eggplant. Between courses, clear your taste buds with cocoa sorbet. Then finish with spectacular cheeses or a soft creme brûlée.

The Edelweiss (2662, fax 3533) is another phenomenal dining experience with its a la carte Chesa restaurant, a Gault Millaut rated spot. Start with a tomato mousse with carparccio, move to the roast lamb with ratatouille and risotto and finish with a tart chocolate drizzled over mangos and papayas.

You can depend on great meals in the Zürserhof (2516; photo left). Also, try Hirlanda (2262), for excellent meals. The Flexenhüsle (4143) has enjoyable fondue nights.

Mountain restaurants
On the mountain, of course, you can ski over to the Galzig or the two gourmet spots in St. Christoph. But, heck, even food lovers need to take a break from big meals and the gourmet stuff.

In that case head to Griabli (3673) for a fun lunch on the mountain in real Austrian style. Gampen (2352532) has a good self-service with a nice terrace.

In Stuben, try the Restaurant Berghaus, right near the base of the lift, with German specialties and pizza.

In Lech many of the Oberlech restaurants can be considered “on-mountain.” And in Zürs, every restaurant is on the moutain. But otherwise, head to the Ruffikopf Panorama Restaurant for good eating and a great view.